Monday, January 30, 2012

Day 4: Mojave to Las Vegas



We started off early from Mojave driving across the desert. I immediately noticed that there were no telephone/electric poles along the road. You don't normally notice telephone poles in the Pacific Northwest because the tall trees block out not only the view of the horizon, but also the view of the sky. If Montana is known as "big sky country," the Pacific Northwest should be known as "small sky country." Since we entered Kansas-like country in Northern California, I had been noticing telephone poles, especially when trying to take landscape photographs from the car. They get in the way. The lack of telephone poles made the country seem both unspoiled and desolate.



We connected with the main highway and headed east. Soon we passed signs for "20-Mule-Team Road." Last night in Mojave we saw a sign for the 20-Mule-Team Terminus. Evidently that was how you got through the desert. Now as we approached Boron ( population: 2,025, elevation: 2060) we could see a huge industrial site. The travel guide explained that this was the site of the largest open pit mine in California. The mine produces borate used to make 20-mule-team Borax. They even have an original 20-Mule-Team Wagon on display at the plant.


We continued on the main highway and passed by the exit for Edwards Air Force Base and came to a crossroads called Kramer Junction. Here we found our lost electricity. BPA-like high power electric lines were everywhere. I think they should call this Electricity Junction.


As we were cruising along the desert highway west of Barstow, we suddenly encountered a stop light -- in the middle of nowhere. Teresa thought it might be there so local police could catch unsuspecting tourists. We decided that we should tell our brother, Gary (who deals with red-light cameras) about this potential new market.


Barstow is a desert town, but back in the age when luxury travel was by train, the town provided lodging, fine dining, and an elegant ballroom to accommodate train travelers. Those days are long gone, but the Spanish Moorish Casa Del Desierto, has been fully restored and now houses the Amtrak station, several museums, and a visitor center. As Teresa said, "Barstow's got it goin' on."


Our route took us slightly north of downtown, so we couldn't see the Casa. But just east of town we ran into a number of billboards advertising for the "Ghost Town Road" exit. As we passed by this oasis, we noticed Peggy Sue's 50's Diner and a packed parking lot (at 9 am). Looks like the Ghost Town has it goin' on too.


And just a few miles down the road was the exit for the Calico Early Man Archeological Site. This site was founded by Dr. Luis Leaky and has active digs in progress. Evidently there has been a lot goin' on in this area for a long, long time.


At Baker we got off the main highway to get gas before heading south for a side trip to the Mojave National Preserve. This oasis area had some interesting eateries including the Mad Greek Cafe and the Alien Fresh Jerky. We must be near Area 51.

The Mojave National Preserve has a number of volcanic cinder cones and lava flows, caves with ancient petroglyphs, and a forest of Joshua trees. We turned our radio to 1610 for information about the preserve. According to them, the Joshua tree's seeds are spread by rodents -- in their feces. The first Joshua tree came from a sloth's feces. I don't even want to know how they figured that out. Since the sloth is no longer in the area, it is up to the kangaroo rats to do the job now.


Joshua trees look like a cross between a pineapple and a fat, woody bush. Even though they aren't very tall, they tower over most desert vegetation and are quite striking.


At Kelso we discovered another relic of the grand days of the trains. The Spanish Mission train station there has been fully restored and houses a museum, exhibits, while still functioning as an Amtrak station. The schedule listed 6 trains today.


After our side trip, we got back on I-15 and headed towards Las Vegas. Teresa's friend, Brenda, has an office at the Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area. We met her there and since I wanted to take some pictures of the area, decided to go on a hike that showcased limestone formations and a great view at the top. I didn't know what I was getting into.


Once we got started up the hill, I remembered a previous experience in Bryce Canyon with Jim -- where I kept thinking as we were hiking DOWN -- we have to come back UP... Well, here we were hiking up first -- a definite plus -- but I kept thinking, we have to come back DOWN. I wasn't worried about overexertion; I was worried about falling off the cliff.


I really wasn't mentally prepared for rock climbing, but after I figured out I could tuck my camera inside my vest to free both hands, it was better. The hike to the top took about an hour and as I was creeping along a 6" ledge, I kept thinking, "Jim will never forgive me if I fall and kill myself." Thank goodness for Tai Chi. The balance and low-to-the-ground stance came in handy. We made it and the view from the top was fantastic. You could look out over the entire city. Quite an adventure.


We made it down, but it was late and the park had closed with our car in the visitor's parking lot. Brenda knew a way back in, so all was well. We followed Brenda home and had a great time visiting over wine and pasta. I think I'll sleep well tonight.

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